Murmansk - 18 July 2015

Yesterday we were at sea again, it was cold so most activities were indoors.  I played scrabble in the morning with Judy from England while George went to a lecture.  A guy called Hugh Neighbour is one of two guest lecturers on board - he is retired from the US Government  and now works with the Smithsonian Institute and has a wonderful knowledge of all things military and marine!  He was able  to identify nearly all the nuclear ships and subs in the harbour on our quick visit to Murmansk three days ago.  The other lecturer is from the UK and is more of a travel buff, keeping us informed of what to expect in each port.  

Last night we had made reservations at the specialty restaurant, Signature, again, and made it quite clear we didn't want to sit with Hindi speaking people this time. Well, as luck would have it we shared a table with Caroline & Ian Collie!   She is really nice & so is he once you get past his bullshit!!!!! I shouldn't be unkind but if I said 'we were in Paris' he would say 'we were in Paris, travelled first class, slept in thr Eiffel Tower & rode in the Tour de France'.  Most people on this cruise could write a book on their travels but Ian's would be the best and most expensive.  Anyway, we did have a good night, sat in the Horizon lounge having more cocktails at 11.30pm!  Easy to do when there is no night time! Before dinner we were entertained by the guest pianist who played some Rachmaninov, Beethoven and Liszt. I forgot to mention the Beatles night about three days ago - a fantastic hour or so of excellent Beatles songs performed by the orchestra and singers and you haven't seen anything until you've seen 200 65+ oldies bopping away on the dancefloor!  We joined them of course and may need 2 wheelchairs on the way home. 92 year old  Freddie & his gorgeous wife from Paris were up there doing their bit.  She had to hold him steady of course.  

Well, now to today.  We arrived in Murmansk at 8am.  Our 'Highlights of Murmansk and Pancakes' tour  was at 9.30 so had to be in the departure lounge by 9.  A lot of formalities being a Russian port and we were given our passports for the day.  Despite our doubts about this place we were surprised at how efficient everything was.  Nice clean and comfortable buses and an excellent tour guide.  We are docked in a working port and surrounded by container ships being unloaded and so it is not the most beautiful area.  It did get better and we were given a tour of the city, cultural centre, monuments, a beautiful church with a service in progress and then pancakes at a hotel.  Also saw a memorial to the submarine which blew up in the Barents Sea back in 2000.  All the buildings looked very shabby and run down and the apartment blocks were terrible.  I reckon they could sell one Faberge egg and with the proceeds splash a bit of paint around and clean up the place.  The people here don't appear to have a lot of pride in their city as the whole place is covered in weeds.  Growing beautifully, of course, and about 2 ft in height!  The tour guide said she is an English teacher and she explained much about the lifestyle here.  From November until February they are in darkness and of course it is freezing cold.  Their heating has two switches, on and off.  The population is diminishing rapidly, now 309,000 people as most young people now go to university in St Petersburg and Moscow and don't return.  Not hard to see why! But they seem happy and that is all that matters.  

The pancakes were delicious - everyone received three very thin crepes with an orange sauce and fresh cream.  Along with tea or coffee, of course.  

Back to the ship in time for a late lunch but not before we had a pina colada at the pool bar first!  I left home with a couple of dresses that fitted - and now they don't.  Wonder why!

So this afternoon I have enjoyed a few hours on my balcony, reading. Our suite is right at the back of the ship and when sailing we watch the wake!  But we are parked behind a freighter which is STILL being unloaded and I may have to go inside as the fumes from the funnel are stifling!